Machine to sew seams with gaps.



W. R. ROGERS.

MACH lNE T0 SEW SEAMS WITH GAPS.

APPLICATION FILED JUNE 30. 19l6.

Patented Sept. 18, 1917.

5 $HEETS-SHEET 1.

W ESSES:

A TTORNEY W. R. ROGERS.

MACHINE TO SEW SEAMS WITH GAPS.

APPLICATION FILED JUNE 30. 1916.

Patented Sept. 18, 1917.

5 SHEETSSHEET 2.

ATTORNEY W. R. ROGERS.

MACHINE T0 SEW SEAMS WITH GAPS.

APPLICATION FILED JUNE 30. 1916.

1,240,259, Patented Sept. 18,1917.

5 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

ATTORNEY W. R. ROGERS.

MACHINE T0 SEW SEAMS WITH GAPS.

APPLICATION FILED JUNE 30.1916.

1 ,24@,259, Patented Sept. 18, 1917.

5 SHEETS-SHEET 4.

ATTORNEY W. R. ROGERS.

MACHINE T0 SEW SEAMS WITH GAPS.

APPLICATION FILED JUNE 30. 1916. V

s SHfETS-SHEET 5.

ATTORNEY Patented Sept. 18, 1917.

mama; snares tim WEE.

wiLLIAM R. noennsor NEWARK, New JERSEY, ASSIGNOR T0 WILLIAM BAUBITSCHEK, or BROOKLYN, NEW YORK.

MACHINE TO SEW SEAMS WITH GAPS.

T 0 all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, WILLIAM R. Roonns, a citizen of the United States, residing in the city of Newark, county of Essex, State of New Jersey, have invented an Improved Machine to Sew Seams with Gaps, of which the following is a specification.

My invention is directed more particularly to providing a sewing machine with mechanism adapted, among other things, for the production, by automatic means, of a straight seam with gaps therein, but without any tie stitches at the ends of the gaps, and adapted to unite a strip of fabric material of indeterminate length, to a body, or base fabric, on which it is mounted, or supported, while producing gaps therein, as hereinafter described.

It is not new to produce mechanically, a seam with such gaps in it, reinforced by a plurality of tie stitches at each end of each gap, and a machine for that purpose, of my own invention, is now the subject of an application by me for United States Letters Patent, filed, June 30, 1915, and now pending in the Patent Office.

Amongother objects of my invention, may be specified, the providing, of automatic means for the mechanical stitching of a seam of the character described, which shall be adapted to produce a fabric structure suitable for the mounting thereon in operative position, of gaps of hooks and eyes, by engaging the mates of the pairs in the gaps thus provided. they being retained in such position by their shanks, thus dispensing with the necessity for stapling the hooks and eyes to the fabric, and obviating the objectionable features of such method, familiar to those versed in the art; also by the omission of tie stitches at the ends of the gaps in the seam, to increase output of the product, and to reduce cost of production, by reducing the number of stitches required to produce a section of scam including a gap, and by permitting a continuous and uninterrupted advance of the material in a straight line to operative position, thus speeding up the machine by reducing the time interval required for producing such a section of seam with a gap in it.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Sept. is, ieiv.

Application filed June 30, 1916. Serial No. 106,891:

Having thus described some of the objects of my invention, I will now more particularly describe the latter by reference to the annexed drawings which show a machine embodying my invention.

Figure 1, is a side elevation of the sewing machine, with parts shown in. section, and with the guides for the fabric strips omitted.

Fig. 2. is an elevation of the front end of the machine, with the guides for the fabric strips in position.

Fig. 3. is an elevation ofthe opposite side of the machine from Fig. 1, and showing the cutting device.

Fig. 4. is a plan view of the bottom of the machine showing the feed mechanism.

Fig. 5. is a detail of the feed bar, showing the fork.

Fig. 6. is a perspective view of the device for positioning the material for the cutting operation.

Fig. 7. is a detail of a cam, having an inner annular face, recessed at one point to receive a tooth.

Fig. 8. is a detail of a pawl having a tooth to engage in said cam, and showing engagement of the pawl with the rock shaft.

Fig. 9. is a perspective view showing the clutch and cutting blade connections.

Fig. 10. is a plan view showing the structure of fabric material produced by the stitching operations.

The stitch producing mechanism of the sewing machine consists of a needle A, and the usual looping device 13. The needle A, is secured in the needle bar C, mounted to reciprocate on an arm D, fulcrumed, at its upper end, on the bracket arm E, of the sewing machine, as shown in Fig. 1. By the arrangement described the arm D, and the needle bar C, and with it the needle A, can be deflected laterally, relatively to the direction of the seam produced, that is, from its normal vertical position to the right, relatively to the operator, and reversely back to its normal position. i The needle bar C, is reciprocated by the pitman F, which takes motion, from the crank F carried by the needle bar shaft F The needle bar C, is normally retained in a vertical position, but may be deflected to the right and operatively retained in that position. and may also be again deflected and returned to its normal position as the automatic control of the different stitching operations requires.

The deflecting mechanism is automatically controlled through a worm G mounted on the needle bar shaft F shown in Fig. 1,

which intermeshes with a spur gear G carried by the cam shaft G, on which is mounted the rotary cam H, which is operatively rotated in the direction of the arrow a. The rotary cam H, is provided with two recesses located on opposite sides of the periphery of the wheel, as shown, which are lettered H H as shown in Fig. l.

The peripheral face of the cam H, is engaged by a friction roller 1, journaled in the free end of an arm I, pivoted on the bracket arm E, to move laterally and positioned by a tension spring I shown in Fig. 1, to normally engage the roller 1, with the peripheral face of the cam H, and to operatively engage the roller in the recessed section H The arm I, is provided with a guideway I through which is adjustably secured the link J, by the pivot pin J The link J, is adj ustably engaged and-secured by two screws J and J, for parallel adjustment to the link J to permit ofpositioning the arm D. For the purpose mentioned, the link J is provided with an elongated slot J through which extend the screws J In order to vary the amplitude of the deflection of the needle bar C, the pivot J, is adjustably posi-' tioned in the guideway I The needle bar C, is normally maintained in a vertical position by the engagement of the roller I, with the sections of the peripheral face of the cam H, intervening between the recessed sections H When the roller I, engages in either of the recesses H, the needle bar is deflected to the right, or laterally of the line of movement of the material, be-

tween downward reciprocations, and completes its reciprocation in the deflecter position, producing a jump stitch, 12, shown in Fig. 10, at an angle to the seam theretofore produced, and continues to reciprocate in that position, until the roller I, is returned to its normal position, by disengagement from the recessed section, when the needle bar C, is also deflected in a reverse direction and returned to its normal position, between downward reciprocations, producing another jump stitch, 12, when the operations are repeated and continue so to be in an indeterminate series.

The feed bar N, is reciprocated vertically by the usual mechanism, including, as shown, a hollow rock shaft P, having an arm P movably engaging a fork N formed on the feed bar N. The shaft P, is provided near its rear end with an arm P connected by an eccentric rod P shown on Fig. 1,

it is rigidly connected by an arm K with an eccentric P, mounted on the needle bar shaft F", so that a continuous rocking motion is operatively given to the shaft P, which, through the arm P reciprocates the feed bar N, vertically. Through the hollow shaft P, extends the shaft B, driving the looping device B, and being itself driven by the pulleys B B and a belt B, from the needle bar shaft F The feed bar N, is provided with a transverse arm N, fulcrumed on an arm of a rock shaft 0, extending longitudinally of the machine underneath the base E, and journaled in suitable bearings on said base. The rock shaft 0, carries at its other end an arm S, pivotally connected with the eccentric rod S, of an eccentric S mounted on the needle bar shaft F The oscillation of the shaft 0, reciprocates the feed bar N, longitudinally, and is timed with the reciprocations of the needle bar C, to occur during the disengagement of the needle A, from the material.

The fabric strips L, and L pass through suitable scrolls lV, W attached to the base E on the front of the machine, to double up the edges of the strips and to properly guide them to the needle A. The strips L, and L prior to reaching the scrolls, W, and V pass through the tension devices W and W and the strips are guided to the said tension devices over a guide rod WV. The presser foot is of the usual construction, as shown. v The intervals between the gaps are measured by the distance between the recessed sections of the cam H, and the width of the cap is determined by the length of the recess H.

When a section of material sufficient for fitting a waist, corset cover, or like garment, 1 with hooks and eyes, has had the stitching operations completed, it is severed, at periodic intervals, from the remaining material by an automatic device, which is constructed as follows:

The mechanism includes a cutting blade K, and a shearing, or cutting plate K which is carried by a yielding support T hereafter described. The cutting blade K, is mounted on a plunger shaft K with wl ili rh he reciprocations of the plunger shaft are timed and controlled by a geared clutch comprised of two parts, M, which is keyed to the needle plunger shaft K imparting motion thereto, as hereafter described.

The clutch member M is operatively engaged with its mate M. at'periodic intervals, by means of a yoke M carried by a transverse rock shaft M The rock shaft M carries a pawl Mi having a tooth M, which is normally maintained in cont-act with the inner face M, of the cam M, by the tension spring M as shown. The said face M, of said cam M, is recessed at M, to receive the tooth M, of the pawl M in operative engagement, the recurrence of which is automatic through the normal progressive motion of the cam M, bringing the recess M, in position for the tooth M", of the pawl M to enter such recess, under the action of the spring M once for each revolution of the cam wheel M \Vhen such engagement occurs the pawl M, rocks the shaft M, thereby imparting motion to the yoke M which advances the clutch member M, into engagement with its mate M The latter taking motion therefrom and through its eccentric R, and connected parts. operatively depresses the plunger shaft K and with itthe cutting blade K, to sever a completed section of the material.

The clutch member M is thrown out of engagement with'its mate M, by the disengagement of the roller U from one of the recesses U of the wheel cam U, which is mounted on the transverse shaft G, see Fig. 3. The cam wheel M, is provided with a gear M and derives its motion from an intermeshing gear M carried on. the shaft G. The roller U is mounted on an arm U pivoted to the bracket arm E, by means of stud U, which carries an arm U that operatively bears on the pawl M, at intermittent intervals. \Vhen the roller U is engaged in one of the recesses U", of the cam I it operates the disenga ement of the tooth M, of the pawl M, from the recess M of the cam M; such disengagement of the arm U forces the pawl inward toward the center of the cam M until the tooth clears the recess.

The springs K. carried on the plunger shaft K return the plunger shaft to normal position after each operative engagement.

The material is positioned, after the completion of the stitching operations, for the cutting operation, by means of an adjustable guide plate T, carried'on a yielding support T which'is pivoted to the bedplate E, at T as shown in detail Fig. 6. The support T, has rigidly mounted thereon the cutting or shearing plate K over which the stitched product passes to the cutting blade K. The cutting plate is positioned in close engagement with the cutting edge of the blade K, by means of the springs T as shown in said detail, to exert a shearing pressure on the fabric.

The operation of the machine'is as follows:

The edges of the strips are folded over by the scrolls and the material is advanced to the machine, and positioned, by a constant forward motion of the material in a straight line, through theaction of\thc guides and tension devices in conjunction with the feed mechanism, the process being automatic.

The stitch producing mechanism produces a seam, in a straight line, which unites the two strips of fabric material at a point conveniently near the edge of the overlying strip of fabric material, for the creation of gaps in the seam, and such seam is continued for a section of desired length, whemby the engagement of the roller 1, in one of the recesses H in the cam H, the needle bar C, and with it the needle A, is deflected to the right, laterally of the line of advance of the material, for a sufficient distance so that the needle shall engage only with the base, or body fabric, thereby producing a jump stitch at an angle with the direction of the seam, and thereupon while the roller I, continues in engagement with the recess H, the stitching operation is continued, without interruption, in a line parallel with that of the seam, in the body fabric only. until a gap in the seam of the desired width is produced, when, by the disengagement of the roller I, from the recess, the needle bar is deflected reversely and returned to its normal verti-al position, producing another jump stitch and operatively begins stitching another section of the seam. By this arrangement there are produced parallel lines of stitches. or seams, in alternate sections, by an indeterminate series of automatic stitching operations, by which an indeterminate series of gaps are produced in the seam uniting the strip of fabric material to the base, or body fabric, adapted to furnish means for the mounting of hooks and eyes therein, in

operative position.

IVhenthe stitching operation is complete on a section of material of the required length to adapt it for fitting a waist, corset cover, or like garment with hooks and eyes, the material passes to the cutting device where, at periodic intervals, the cutting blade operatively severs the completed sec tion, without in any way impeding, or interfering with the continuous forward progress of the material, thus producing strips of fabric material, in commercial lengths when provided with hooks and eyes mounted thereon, by engagement in such gaps, for being fitted to garments such as described.

Having thus specified, described and shown the same, I claim as'novel and my invention:

1. In a machine for sewing seams with gaps, in combination, an automatic stitch producing mechanism, adapted to normally reciprocate the needle bar, downwardly, a

vertical position, to produce a seam, a needle bar frame fulcrumed for lateral motion, in

which the needle bar is mounted, a needle bar shaft from which the needle bar is reciprocated, a rotary cam having two opposite recesses in its periphery and rotated from the needle bar-shaft, a friction roller connected with the needle bar frame and operatively engaging in the recesses to deflect the needle bar and produce gaps in the seam at equal distances and in an indeterminate series, and an automatic feed mechanism adapted to continuously advance the material forward, in a straight line. K

2. In a machine for sewing seams with gaps, in combination, an automatic stitch producing mechanism, adapted to normally reciprocate the needle bar downwardly, in a vertical position, to produce a seam, a needle bar frame fulcrumed for lateral motion, in which the needle bar is mounted,

a needle bar shaft from which the needle bar is reciprocated, a rotary cam having two opposite recesses in its periphery and rotated from the needle bar shaft, a friction roller connected with the needle bar frame and operatively engaging in the recesses to deflect the needle bar and produce gaps in the seam at equal distances and in an indeterminate series, an automatic feed mechanism adapted to continuously advance the material forward in a straight line and means for the automatic positioning of the material.

3. In a machine for sewing seams with gaps, in combination, an automatic stitch producing mechanism, adapted to normally reciprocate the needle bar downwardly in a vertical position, to produce a seam, a needle bar frame fulcrumed for lateral motion, in which the needle bar is mounted, a needle bar shaft from which the needle bar is reciprocated, a rotary cam having two opposite recesses in its periphery and rotated from the needle bar shaft, a friction roller connected with the needle bar frame and operatively engaging in the recesses to deflect the needle bar and produce gaps in the seam at equal distances and in an indeterminate series, an automatic feed mechan ism adapted to continuously advance the material forward in a straight line and means for the automatic severing of the material, after the completion of the stitching operations, into sections of predetermined length, without impeding such stltching operations.

4. In a machine to sew seams with gaps, in combination, an automatic stitch producing mechanism, having the needle mounted in a reci-procatory needle bar, normally positioned vertically, and means for deflecting the needle bar between downward recipro- :Inate sections of a seam uniting both fabrics of the material and of stitching which shall engage the body fabric only, connected by ump stitches such stitch producing mechanism comprismg a needle bar frame, fulcrumed for lateral motion, in which the needle bar is mounted, a needle bar shaft from which the needle bar is reciprocated, a rotary cam having two 0 posite recesses in its periphery and rotate from the needle bar shaft, a friction roller connected with the needle bar frame and operatively engaging in the recesses to deflect the needle bar and produce gaps in the seam at equal intervals and an automatic feed mechanism adapted to continuously advance the material forward in a straight line.

5. In a machine to sew seams with gaps, in combination, an automatic stitch producing mechanism, having the needle mounted in a reciprocatory needle bar, normally positioned vertically, and means for deflecting the needle bar between downward recipro cations and operatively reciprocating the same while deflected to produce an indeterminate series, in parallel lines, of alternate sections of a seam uniting both fabrics of the material, andof stitching which shall engage the body fabric only, connected by jump stitches, such stitch producing mechanism comprising a needle bar frame, fulcrumed for lateral motion, in- 'which the needle bar is mounted, a needle bar shaft from which the needle bar is reciprocated, a rotary cam having two opposite recesses in its periphery and rotatedfrom the needle bar shaft, a friction'roller connected with the needle bar frame and operatively engaging in the recesses to deflect the needle bar and an automatic feed mechanism adapted to continuouslycadvance the material forward in a straight line and means for the automatic positioning of the material.

6. In a machine to sew seams with gaps, in

, combination, an automatic stitch producing mechamsm, having the needle mounted in a reciprocatory needle bar, normally positioned vertically, and means for deflecting the needle bar between downward reciprocations andoperatively reciprocating the same while deflected to produce an indeterminate series, in parallel lines, of alternate sections of a seam uniting both fabrics of the material and of stitching which shall engage the body fabric only, connected bvjum-p stitches, such stitch producing mechanism comprising a needle bar frame, fulcrumed for lateral motion, in. which the needle bar is mounted, a needle bar shaft from which the needle bar is reciprocated, a rotary cam having two opposite recesses in its periphery and rotated from the needle bar shaft, a friction roller connected with the needle bar frame and operatively engaging in the recesses to defiect the needle bar, an automatic feed mech- 5 anism adapted to continuously advance the material forward in a straight line and automatic means for severing the material, after the completion, of the stitching operations,

WM. R. ROGERS.

the material.

Witnesses:

JULIA minn, J NO. W. DAVIS. 

